Taaibosch Crescendo 2021

Crescendo, the Cabernet Franc-led blend originally made by Chris Keet off what was then Cordoba on the Helderberg, earned near-instant cult status following its maiden 1995 release. Production subsequently lapsed, but the project was revived when the Oddo family of France acquired the property in 2017, renaming it Taaibosch and appointing Schalk-Willem Joubert – formerly of Rupert & Rothschild – to carry forward Keet’s legacy. It ranks as one of the more consequential fine wine ventures in South Africa of late.

The 2021 vintage suggests that all involved are laying solid foundations for something truly great. A blend of 54% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, the individual components were matured for 12 months in barrel, of which 30% was new before blending and a further 12 months in concrete tank and foudre.

The nose is extremely fragrant with notes of rose, red berries and dried herbs, while the palate shows clarity of fruit, vibrant acidity and fine-grained tannins. Alcohol is a moderate 13.5% and the wine is intricate with good drive – it has the comparative lightness and finesse that very much defined the wines that Keet made some three decades ago. (www.winemag.co.za)