Donnhoff, Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Spatlese 2020

An explosion of white peach, nectarines and slate with higher toned floral accents. Superb balance and persistence. Fantastic wine.

Helmut Dönnhoff has for the past twenty years been regarded by many as the leading winemaker in Germany. The spotlight falls on him even in difficult years as a winemaker who can overcome nature’s obstacles and produce wines that are brilliant by comparison to others. His meticulous attention to detail in the vineyard and winery has provided him with such a wealth of experience that his timing in picking, control of vinification and bottling seems without fault. As you observe him more closely, though, you discover a quiet intensity and a very developed sense of mastery. Behind all his reticence, it is easy to discern someone sincerely engaged in his craft. If his wines are good, it’s because he’s made a study of his terroirs. The wildly diverse and complex soils of the Nahe allow Helmut to work in an area that warrants a lifetime of exploration. It is said the the village of Niederhausen harbors twenty different soil types! The demand for these wines is terrific and quantities are limited.

Slate under alluvial sediments, pebbles, sandstone. ‘Aromatic tar’ note; savoury firestone, apricot purée, dense, intense; big flavour expansion in the mouth. Stony, savoury notes diminish the perception of sweetness, lush, mouth-watering. Focused and expansive. Cracking balance. Opulent and fleshy, nervosity of acidity. Just lovely.