Chandon de Briailles, Corton Bressandes Grand Cru

20 per cent whole bunch, 20 per cent new oak. A good Bressandes is primordial Corton; majestically intense with lots of meaty perfume, a tightly coiled, mineral palate and a complex weave of structure that pleads to be cellared. Chandon's vines here are over 30 years old and faithfully produce wines that reflect both the stony soil character of the hill as well as the dark fruit, spice and wild game/truffle tones so typically gifted by this beautifully situated vineyard. The 2011 is clearly a more supple and restrained example: there is a lovely aromatic intensity here, reminiscent of a rose garden or summer hedgerow, which, when allied with great purity of fruit, makes for an audacious and charmed glass of wine when young. As always, this will benefit from time in the cellar, though the 2011 is remarkably welcoming even at this juncture-just make sure there is some protein in sight to break down those thick-set tannins.

"Here too there is a deft touch of wood that is sufficiently slight so as to allow the slightly more elegant and perfumed red berry fruit, earth and stone aromas to shine. The cool, pure and more obviously mineral-inflected flavors also possess a bit more size and weight and while the lingering and well balanced finish is moderately austere, this is actually relatively civilized for a young Bressandes." 91-93 points, Allen Meadows, burghound isssue 50

Producteur des Très Grande Qualité [one of only 25 in Côte de Beaune] in Le Classment 2013