Chateau Calon Segur 2009, St Estephe

The 2009 has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon (90%) ever included in a Calon-Segur (the rest is Merlot and Petit Verdot). Completely different from its St.-Estephe brethren, it is more backward and structured with a dense purple colour, lots of black cherry, black currant, loamy earth, forest floor and spice notes, excruciatingly high levels of tannin, and a wonderful inner core of sweetness and concentration. It could behave like the 1982, which, at age 30, is just becoming mature. The 2009 is an uncompromising, masculine, massive style of wine that needs 15-20 years of cellaring even in this luscious, flashy, flamboyant vintage. It is super-tight and needs lots of coaxing and aeration. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2050+ Robert Parker, Wine Advocate, March 2012 94+

A pretty nose of raspberry and blackcurrant coulis leads to an elegant palate of fresh bramble fruit and black cherries. Calon-Segur is not a powerful wine in 2009 but it is sophisticated with fine, gentle tannins and a twist of sweet spice on the finish. Usually in the shadow of its sister property, Grand-Puy-Lacoste (with the exact same score), this is more expressive than usual. The nose is opulent and inviting, but what follows is a model of elegance, with tannins, acidity and fruit seamlessly interwoven. The finesse of the tannins was noticeable, albeit totally absorbed by the glorious weight of fruit. There are layers of flavour and texture, and a beguiling combination of elegance and power, with an unusually high amount of Cabernet providing fine structure.

Chateau Calon-Segur, the most northerly of all the Médoc Grand-Crus Classés, is the château with a heart on its label. That is because the former owner, Marquis de Ségur, though he owned such Estates as Lafite and Latour, he declared "My heart belongs to Calon". For the last century it has been owned by the Gasqueton family.

Calon-Ségur's 74-hectare vineyard, which is partly enclosed by a wall, is located just to the north of the village of St-Estèphe. The vineyards (Cabernet Sauvignon 65%, Merlot 20%, Cabernet Franc 15%) lie on up to 5 metre deep gravel beds mixed with sand and, in parts, limestone and clay.

The wines are fermented for 3 weeks in enamel-lined steel vats and are then matured in oak barriques (40% new) for 18 months. Recently, Calon-Ségur has hit form with notable successes in 1995 and 1996 and 2000. At its best, Calon-Ségur produces meaty and concentrated wines displaying excellent depth of fruit and superb length. It is classified as a 3eme Cru Classe.